The last thing you want to do when your car is finally paid off is have to start thinking about a new car and another five-year loan. Your goal is to push the day of debt renewal off, as far into the future as possible and put the hundreds of dollars you'd otherwise be spending on a monthly payment to better uses.

There's no reason why almost any late-model car or truck can't be counted on to last for 10 or more years and run reliably for well beyond 100,000 miles. This is not as rare a site as you may think and you can do it too. 

Many people think that once the warranty runs out or 50,000 miles shows on the odometer that they have to get rid of the car quickly because the end is near. The durability and reliability of modern cars is remarkable, provided they're treated properly.

What does properly treatment mean?

No abuse to your baby. When you first start the vehicle, do not race the engine. Accelerate gradually until the engine (and the rest of the drivetrain) has completely warmed up; it takes about 10-15 minutes, depending on the outside temperature. Most engine wear occurs during cold-starts and during the first few minutes of operation afterwards. If you rev a cold engine it will greatly accelerate the wear and tear of the engine. If you have a truck and pull a trailer or haul heavy loads, it is especially important to take it easy until the engine's had a chance to warm up and the oil is circulating freely. Do you just start the vehicle and leave it idling in the driveway for more than a couple of minutes?  Doing that is also bad for the engine, because idling does not heat your engine up quickly enough to burn off raw gas and other contaminants that can dilute the oil and reduce its ability to lubricate and protect internal parts properly. Simply get in, start the engine wait 30 seconds and drive way at a reasonable speed, avoid full-throttle starts or passing attempts until about 20 minutes have passed.

Lubricant levels/regular changes: It’s critical to routinely check the engine oil and transmission fluid to assure they're at the proper level. Have these fluids changed (along with the appropriate filters) at least as often as recommended by the factory under "severe/heavy duty" conditions. Do not go by the "normal use" fluid/filter change intervals unless you live in a rural area and rarely experience stop-and-go driving, or periods of prolonged idling, as in traffic jams or trailer towing.  All these are considered "severe/heavy duty" conditions.

For most people, day-in, day-out driving conditions meet the factory definitions of "severe" service, yet many people assume that because they're not drag racing or otherwise abusing their vehicles that they can adhere to the "normal use" recommendations. The "severe/heavy duty" recommended change intervals are typically half the "normal use" intervals (three months/3000 miles vs. six months/6000 miles).

Check your owner's manual: the actual time/mileage increments for your specific vehicle can be found there. This small investment will reap large benefits over the life of your vehicle.

Pay attention to what the factory says about maintenance. Engine components wear over time as do any moving component or part.  For example - the timing belt or timing chain (this is inside the motor) should be replaced at 50,000 miles (based on what the manual states – of course), this required part should be replaced to keep the motor running.  If you fail to do it – this is where expensive motor repair can come into play. If the factory says it's essential to flush the cooling system every three years at minimum, do it. If you don’t flush your coolant then you will need to replace your radiator and water pump  (this can cost around $500 or more).  This is the result of the old units being ruined by degraded/contaminated antifreeze/ coolant.

Every car should have the entire brake system professionally "bled" (purged of old fluid) and refilled with new brake fluid at least every two years; otherwise you risk ruining the very expensive ABS pump, rotting the brake lines from the inside, and damaging the entire system. This can cost thousands of dollars to replace the whole system.  Why should you replace brake fluid?  Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and moisture in the brake system is lethal but silent. Major damage will occur before you even realize it - and by then it's too late.

Be kind in extreme weather: If it's very hot or very cold outside, life is much harder on your car's engine and all its mechanical components. Any excessive demands placed on your engine in such conditions can (and usually will) come back to haunt you down the road. Everything is multiplied during extreme weather – so when that problem seems to be more obvious its because it needs to be repaired, replaced or changed immediately.

Change your oil and fluids to synthetic lubricants. Oil and synthetic lubricants: although they’re more expensive per quart than ordinary motor oil and transmission fluid (about $4 per quart vs. $1.50 or so for premium quality non-synthetics) the benefits far outweigh the small initial cash outlay.  Synthetics are vastly superior in terms of the protection they provide: their resistance to extremes of temperature, "flow rates" (viscosity) when cold and resistance to high heat conditions/extreme or severe service. Oil is the blood of your engine and is extremely important.

The biggest mistake many new car buyers make is failing to read their owner's manual cover to cover, especially the chapters dealing with maintenance, and not following these recommendations to the letter. You can pay now - or pay much more, later.  You can be one of those stories where your vehicle has 300,000 miles and still going strong.